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The city of Lucknow blends royalty, culture and many religions into each other unlike anywhere else. Mukaish, an almost dying craft of Lucknow, is age-old embroidery where thin strips of metallic wire are inserted into the fabric and then twisted to create metallic embroidery. This form of embroidery can be done on all kinds of clothing items, right from sarees and salwar kameez to shirts, tunics, kurtis and more.
Mukaish work encompasses a time-taking procedure and the method follows 3 basic steps:
Chapaayi: The motif is first written on the material employing a mixture of gum and physicist (indigo powder). This print is transferred onto the material using either a block or a perforated paper stencil.
Takaayi: These square measures are stretched into strips and then skillfully put into the hearth so the metal takes on completely different hues. This often removes wires of finer breadths. Next, they are crushed employing a smaller hammer so the density of the wire is nearly thin.
Ghutaayi: After embroidery has been done, the material is displayed flat on the bottom over a blanket. The embroidery is then rubbed totally over with a glass bottle or gastropod shells to flatten out any lumps within the embroidery. It also burnishes the metal and leaves it brighter and shinier.
Mukesh work transpired as a way to beautify chikankari embroidery. As the metallic threads used in Mukesh work were initially precious metals such as gold and silver, this craft was capital intensive. This work is done usually on chiffon and georgette fabrics. However, cotton is also another viable option since chikankari on cotton is renowned throughout the world.